ReviewsTop picksGift guidesCategoriesExplainedThe JournalHow we reviewAbout Affiliate disclosure

Explained

Wood Routers, Explained

After reading, you'll know whether a compact router will ever do what you need, and why you cannot upgrade your way past a quarter inch collet.

Updated October 10, 2026 · Companion to our Tools & DIY review

DEWALT DW618 2-1/4 HP Electronic Variable Speed Fixed Base Router - our top pick
In this guide

Routers are sold on horsepower and speed. The specification that decides what the tool can ever do is the collet, and it cannot be changed later.

The 30-second version

  • The collet fixes your bit catalogue, because large-diameter cutters are generally made in half inch shank, and no adapter converts a quarter inch router upward.
  • Half inch shanks deflect less, with roughly four times the cross-sectional area, which shows as less chatter even on profiles sold in both sizes.
  • Big bits need slow speeds, since rim speed is RPM times cutter circumference, and a large cutter at full speed can burn timber and become dangerous.
  • Router horsepower is a peak figure, quoted as maximum or peak on tools drawing six or seven amps, which is the practice that drew a class action in the compressor market.
  • Many routers ship fixed-base, so plunge work, meaning mortises and stopped grooves, means budgeting for a second base.

The products this guide is about

Our verdict on each, with the full reasoning on the companion review.

What actually matters

  • Collet size - 1/4 in. on compacts, 1/4 and 1/2 in. on mid-size and larger. Decides which bits fit, permanently, and cannot be upgraded because the collet seats in the motor shaft.
  • Speed range - commonly 8,000 to 30,000 RPM. The high end suits small bits, the low end exists for large-diameter cutters that must be slowed to control rim speed.
  • Amps - the honest power figure, since horsepower on routers is usually quoted as a peak or maximum. Six to seven amps is typical for compacts, twelve for mid-size.
  • Base type - fixed for edge work and tables, plunge for starting cuts in the middle of a workpiece. Many routers ship fixed and sell the plunge base separately.
  • Base flatness and concentricity - governs how faithfully the router follows a bearing or a template. Rarely published and worth researching by reputation.
  • Soft start - ramps the motor up rather than jolting, which matters more as the tool and the bit get larger.

The specs, in plain English

ColletThe tapered sleeve that grips the bit shank, seated into the motor shaft. Sized 1/4 or 1/2 inch, and not interchangeable between them on a given router.
ShankThe plain cylindrical end of a router bit that the collet grips. Half inch shanks are stiffer and available in profiles quarter inch cannot support.
Rim speedHow fast the cutting edge travels, equal to RPM times the cutter's circumference. Large bits reach dangerous rim speeds at settings that are fine for small ones.
Compact or trim routerA one-handed router of roughly 1 to 1.25 peak HP with a quarter inch collet. The class most routing is actually done with.
Fixed baseA base setting the cutting depth before the motor is switched on. Used for edge profiling and in router tables.
Plunge baseA spring-loaded base letting the spinning bit be lowered into the middle of a workpiece, for mortises, inlays and stopped grooves.
Soft startElectronics ramping the motor to speed rather than starting it abruptly, reducing the twist felt at startup.
Bearing-guided bitA bit with a bearing that rides the workpiece edge or a template, setting the cut without a fence.
Climb cutFeeding the router in the same direction as the bit rotation. Faster and it pulls the tool, which is why it is generally avoided freehand.

Green flags vs red flags

Green flags

  • Collet sizes are listed explicitly, and both are named if both are supplied.
  • The speed range is given as two numbers so the low end is visible.
  • Amps are published alongside any horsepower figure.
  • Which base is supplied is stated, and available bases are listed.
  • Plunge capacity is published for plunge-capable models.

Red flags

  • Horsepower leads the listing and is labelled peak or maximum.
  • Only a top speed is given, with no floor.
  • The collet size is not stated anywhere in the specification.
  • Accepts most bits appears with no shank size named.
  • Router table ready is claimed on a tool with a quarter inch collet only.

Who's who: the brands

  • DEWALT - Publishes both collet sizes on mid-size routers and runs a coherent two-base compact system. The DWP611 compact tops out at a lower speed than the Makita RT0701C.
  • Makita - Its RT0701C compact has a 10,000 to 30,000 RPM range and many aftermarket bases are available for it. Labels its horsepower figure as a maximum.
  • Bosch - Makes plunge routers and the Colt compact, which competes with the Makita.
  • Festool - Router systems built around guide rails and dust extraction, priced accordingly and sold as part of an ecosystem.
  • Porter-Cable - Known for the 690 series of mid-size fixed base routers, which many jigs and bases are built around.

How to read a listing without getting fooled

Read the collet size first and treat it as a permanent decision about which bits you can own. Then read the speed range from the bottom, because a low floor signals a router meant for large cutters. Take amps as the power figure and ignore any horsepower quoted as peak or maximum. Check which base is included, since many are fixed, and price the plunge base before deciding the tool is cheap.

How much should you spend?

Budget and mid-range both buy compact quarter inch routers, and the difference between them is speed range, base flatness and how many jigs fit. Premium buys a mid-size router with both collets, which is the only way to reach large-diameter bits and a sensible choice for a router table. Cordless carries a premium for mobility that most routing does not need.

Questions, answered

Is a compact router enough for a beginner?

For most of what beginners do, yes. Edge profiling, roundovers, chamfers, trimming laminate and cutting hinge mortises with a jig are all quarter inch work and all easier with a light one-handed tool. The limitation appears the first time you want a raised panel cutter or a large rail-and-stile set, which are generally half inch shank, and at that point you are buying a second router rather than an accessory.

Why does my router burn the wood?

Usually feeding too slowly, or running a large bit at too high a speed. Both leave the cutter rubbing rather than slicing, which generates heat instead of chips. Slow the router down as bit diameter goes up, keep the feed steady rather than hesitant, and take shallower passes so the cutter is always removing material rather than polishing it.

Which direction should I feed a router?

Against the rotation of the bit, so the cutter pushes back against your feed rather than pulling the tool along. On an outside edge that means moving left to right as you face the work; inside a frame it reverses. Feeding with the rotation is a climb cut, which is faster and grabs, and freehand it can pull the router out of your hands.

Do I need a router table?

Not to start, and it changes what the tool can do. A table turns the router into a small shaper, which is safer and far more accurate for narrow stock, edge profiles and anything repeated. It also makes large bits practical, which is where the collet question returns: most table work worth doing wants half inch shanks, so a table and a quarter inch router is a limiting combination.

Ready to choose? See our top pick, the alternatives, and the one we'd skip See the Wood Routers verdicts

Or jump to the head-to-head: DEWALT DW618 2-1/4 HP Electronic Variable Speed Fixed Base Router vs Makita RT0701C Compact Router.

Related guides

Work Gloves After reading, you'll understand every character in an EN 388 code, know whether an impact claim is graded or just a pass, and be able to pick a palm coating from the liquid on your hands. Work Lights After reading, you'll understand which work light specs predict how useful a light will be, and which ones are there to produce a big number. Adjustable Wrenches After reading, you'll understand what jaw clearance is, why head and jaw tip thickness are two different numbers, what the standard actually requires, and how to read a spec block that is mostly missing. Air Compressors After reading, you'll be able to size a compressor to the tool you own, and know which of its published numbers to ignore. Angle Grinders After reading, you'll understand how to match a wheel to a grinder, why the guard and the switch matter more than the motor, and which markings on a wheel are required rather than decorative. Bar Clamps After reading, you'll understand the main clamp types, what force and throat depth mean, and which clamps to buy first.