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Explained

Jigsaws, Explained

After reading, you'll know why the fastest-quoted jigsaw can be the slowest cutting one, and which blade fitting to insist on.

Updated August 23, 2026 · Companion to our Tech & Gadgets review

DEWALT DW317K 5.5 Amp Corded Variable Speed Orbital Jig Saw - our top pick
In this guide

Jigsaw listings lead with strokes per minute. That is half of the cutting rate, and the other half, how far the blade moves each stroke, is where these tools actually differ.

The 30-second version

  • Stroke times speed is the cutting rate, so a saw quoting 3,200 SPM on a 3/4 inch stroke removes less than one quoting 3,100 on a full inch.
  • T-shank is the standard now, with the widest blade selection, while U-shank is the legacy fitting and its range keeps narrowing.
  • A saw taking both shanks closes nothing off, which is worth more than a small speed advantage over the life of the tool.
  • Orbital action trades finish for speed, swinging the blade forward on the up stroke to bite harder, which cuts faster and splinters more.
  • The straight setting is the one for finished faces, since any orbital action will tear veneer and laminate on the show side.

The products this guide is about

Our verdict on each, with the full reasoning on the companion review.

What actually matters

  • Stroke length - how far the blade travels per stroke, usually 3/4 or 1 inch. Multiply by strokes per minute to get the real cutting rate rather than comparing either alone.
  • Blade shank - T-shank locks tool-lessly and dominates current blade ranges; U-shank clamps with a screw or lever and is the shrinking legacy fitting. Some saws take both.
  • Orbital settings - usually three or four positions plus straight. More positions is finer control; the presence of a genuine straight setting is the part that matters.
  • Strokes per minute - variable on all serious saws, typically topping out between 2,600 and 3,200. Useful only against stroke length.
  • Handle style - top-handle is gripped above the tool and suits awkward positions; barrel-grip is held around the body for finer control on curves. Personal and worth testing.
  • Shoe and bevel - the base plate tilts for bevelled cuts, and how solidly it locks decides whether the angle holds through a long cut.

The specs, in plain English

Stroke lengthThe vertical distance the blade travels on each stroke. Longer strokes cut faster and use more of the blade, spreading wear.
T-shankA blade with a tanged top that locks into a tool-less holder. The current standard and the fitting with the widest selection.
U-shankA blade with a U-shaped notch clamped by a screw or lever. The older fitting, still sold, with a steadily narrowing range.
Orbital actionBlade motion that swings forward on the up stroke so the teeth bite rather than scrape. Faster and rougher as the setting increases.
Straight or zero settingOrbital action switched off so the blade moves only up and down. The setting for clean cuts in veneer, laminate and finished faces.
SPMStrokes per minute. Half of the cutting-rate equation, and meaningless without the stroke length it is multiplied by.
Top-handleA jigsaw gripped by a handle above the body, with the trigger under the fingers. The common design and easier in awkward positions.
Barrel-gripA jigsaw held around the motor body with the hand lower and nearer the blade. Favoured for fine control on tight curves.
Blade deflectionThe blade wandering off vertical because it is supported only at the top. The reason thick cuts bevel on the underside.

Green flags vs red flags

Green flags

  • Stroke length is published in inches or millimetres.
  • The blade shank type is stated explicitly, ideally as accepting both.
  • Orbital settings are counted and a straight or zero position is named.
  • The speed range is given from zero rather than as a single maximum.
  • Handle style is described so top-handle and barrel-grip can be told apart.

Red flags

  • Strokes per minute leads and no stroke length appears anywhere.
  • Amperage is emphasised on a saw with a short stroke.
  • The blade fitting is not named, or is described only as tool-less.
  • Orbital action is claimed with no setting count.
  • A high SPM figure sits next to a 3/4 inch stroke without comment.

Who's who: the brands

  • DEWALT - Publishes stroke and orbital detail clearly, and its corded models are among the few that accept both blade shank types.
  • Makita - Full stroke lengths and well-made shoes, with speed ceilings that tend to sit below the competition on the cordless models.
  • Bosch - Long-standing reputation in jigsaws, and the originator of the T-shank fitting that became the industry standard.
  • CRAFTSMAN - Budget corded saws, occasionally with shorter strokes and U-shank fittings that limit what blades will ever fit.
  • Festool - Barrel-grip saws built around dust extraction and blade guidance, aimed at cabinetmakers and priced accordingly.

How to read a listing without getting fooled

Find the stroke length and multiply it by the quoted speed before comparing anything. Then find the blade shank type, and treat a U-shank-only saw as a narrowing commitment rather than a neutral choice. Check that a straight orbital setting exists if you will cut anything with a finished face. Read amperage last, since a larger motor driving a shorter stroke does not produce a faster cut.

How much should you spend?

Budget buys a corded saw that may have a short stroke and a legacy blade fitting, which is fine for occasional thin-stock work. Mid-range buys a full inch of stroke, four orbital settings and, on the best of them, compatibility with both blade shanks. Premium buys cordless freedom and brushless run time, and generally commits you to T-shank, which is where the blade market is going anyway.

Questions, answered

Can I use T-shank blades in a U-shank saw?

No. The two fittings are physically different, and no adapter makes a T-shank blade sit properly in a U-shank clamp. This is why the shank question is a purchase decision rather than an accessory one: a U-shank-only saw is limited to a range that continues to shrink, while a saw taking both, or a T-shank saw, has the current market available to it.

Why does my jigsaw splinter the top surface?

Because the blade cuts on the up stroke, so it tears fibres out of the face that is pointing at you. The fixes are to cut with the good face down, use a down-cut blade that reverses the tooth direction, drop the orbital setting to straight, or put masking tape over the line. A splinter guard insert in the shoe helps too, if the saw takes one.

How thick can a jigsaw cut?

The blade length sets the theoretical limit and blade deflection sets the practical one. Most jigsaws will nominally cut two inches or more of softwood, but past about an inch and a half the blade starts wandering and the cut bevels on the underside. For thick stock a bandsaw or a circular saw will give you a squarer cut with far less effort.

Is orbital action ever a bad thing?

On finished surfaces, yes. Orbital action makes the teeth bite harder, which cuts faster and tears more, so on veneered ply, laminate or anything that will be seen it produces exactly the splintering you are trying to avoid. That is what the straight or zero setting is for. Use the orbital settings for rough cuts and construction material, and turn them off for anything with a show face.

Ready to choose? See our top pick, the alternatives, and the one we'd skip See the Jigsaws verdicts

Or jump to the head-to-head: DEWALT DW317K 5.5 Amp Corded Variable Speed Orbital Jig Saw vs DEWALT DCS334B 20V MAX XR Brushless Cordless Top-Handle Jigsaw.

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